Serving ALL of the HAM Community

Getting Started

It's Easy to Get Started
The most popular license for beginners is the Technician Class license, which requires only a 35 multiple-choice question written examination. The test is written with the beginner in mind. Morse Code is not required for this license. With a Technician Class license, you will have all ham radio privileges above 30 megahertz (MHz). These privileges include the very popular 2-meter band. Many Technician licensees enjoy using small (2 meter) hand-held radios to stay in touch with other hams in their area. Technicians may operate FM voice, digital packet (computers), television, single-sideband voice and several other interesting modes. You can even make international radio contacts via satellites, using relatively simple equipment. In the US, there are three license levels, or "license classes" (Technician class, General class and Extra Class). These licenses are granted by the Federal Communications Commission (FCC).

New Extra Question Pool- from N3FJP

Snkdavis via yahoogroups.com
9:18 AM (28 minutes ago)

to n3fjp_Software, N3FJP_Software.

You'll find the updated question pools, as well as the program on the Amateur Exam Study Program link at http://www.n3fjp.com/.

Hi All,
My son Brad, KB3MNE, upgraded to General yesterday!  That gave me the motivation to take a break from the C# rewrite (I've been deep in developing the rig interface code for weeks now) and update the Extra question pool for the new questions that just went into effect in July.
The Amateur Exam Study Program has all the complete pools for all three license classes, is easy and fun to use and completely free.  If you know anyone thinking about joining our great hobby or wanting to upgrade, please encourage them to download the Amateur Exam Study Program software.
You'll find the updated question pools, as well as the program on the Amateur Exam Study Program link at http://www.n3fjp.com/.
And just a reminder, especially with the threat of severe weather across a significant part of the country this afternoon, if you haven't yet tried my free WXWarn software, please download a copy and see what you think.  WXWarn is easy to use, free weather software that will monitor National Weather Service warnings, watches, forecasts, etc., and alert you (audio and visually) as new ones are issued. Monitor the whole US, just your state, county or county list. You can also monitor and screen for specific alerts.
WXWarn will also display up to 12, real time weather graphics that you can configure for content and size! This software is designed to download and parse weather data published by the NWS.
Put WXWarn in your Windows Startup folder. As long as you have an Internet connection you will always be monitoring for weather events whenever they unfold.
The weather data that WXWarn displays is based on criteria that you can select. Pleasant audio alerts are provided that will tell you the location and nature of each report.
You'll find the WXWarn software at http://www.wxspots.com/.
73, Scott

Study Help

Band Plans

Tone Squelch and more

I am going to add more things on here as I need them.

Radio Grams

how to send a radio gram  http://www.dfwtrafficnet.org/radiogramHow2.html

The WARTS NET web site has step by step help on preparing and sending and recieving Radio grams-http://wartsnet.org/, you really need t check out their web site, they really have done all the work for us, all you need to do is go get it.

Also the best way to learn about how radio grams and traffic is passed and recieved is to listen to the WARTS net at 6:00PM every night on 80m -3975 mhz and when they pass traffic follow them to where they pass it and listen listen listen.

Phonetic alphabet



Phonetic Alphabet for Ham Radio & SSB CB Radio


The NATO Phonetic Alphabet is formally known as the International Radiotelephony Spelling Alphabet. The NATO Alphabet assigns code words to each letter of the alphabet. These are often used in Amateur Radio and SSB Cb Radio. Ham Radio and Sideband CB Radio operators often use these code words to accurately convey messages in weak signal conditions.

A = Alpha
B = Bravo
C = Charlie
D = Delta
E = Echo
F = Foxtrot
G = Golf
H = Hotel
I = India
J = Juliet
K = Kilo
L = Lima
M = Mike
N = November
O = Oscar
P = Papa
Q = Quebec
R = Romeo
S = Sierra
T = Tango
U = Uniform
V = Victor
W = Whiskey
X = X-ray
Y = Yankee
Z = Zulu

Amateur Radio Q codes


QTH locator with GoogleMaps by dxzone.com


This is from Tim=KD7ADG, mostly for my information, but hopefully someone else would like this information as well:

Hi Mike, I can't say specifically what solder to buy but I can say what not to buy and some general things to look for. First the alloy is important. 63/37 is best but 60/40 is pretty close and easier to find and usually a bit cheaper. You do not want 50/50 or 40/60 (not the same as 60/40). You want rosin or activated rosin flux core or one of the newer high-tech fluxes. This last time I purchased solder the rosin flux was out of stock and I got what is called Crystal-400 flux. It's one of the newer high tech fluxes but it's OK. You absolutely do not want acid flux. The high tech fluxes are more about pollution control and post soldering clean-up. This may be important for major manufacturers but not for the casual solderer. Some work OK but some are poor performers and some are VERY expensive. Rosin is fine. If you are shopping at a good electronics supply store the various amounts of flux will be shown. There is 1%, 2% and 3% flux. I prefer 3% for general work and repairs. 2% is OK but don't get 1%. Generally the more flux the better, especially for service. Then the brand, Kester is a poor performer as are most of the generic and store brands. I usually buy Multicore but my favorite is Ersin but that is quite a bit more expensive. Don't cheap out on solder, better solder costs more. The last that I bought cost me $42 for a pound. You probably should not buy a pound. Over time it develops an oxide coating that makes it harder to work with and uses up the flux. Solder older than a year will show some oxidation but will still be OK to use. By 2 years most will start to be difficult to work with and after 3 years it will be really hard to use unless you clean the surface first. It's available in small amounts (pocket packs), 1 oz, 2 oz, 4 oz (1/4 LB), 8 oz (1/2 LB.) and 16 oz (1 pound). Probably 2 or 4 ounces will be enough for you to use up before it gets too crusty. Also the diameter is important. I get 0.61 mm which is about 0.024" (24/1000") this is about 23 gauge. This is perfect for older circuit board use, a bit small for soldering PL-259 connectors and a bit large for surface mount components, so this size is a good compromise for me. For the PL-259 connectors I just need to use more. For you I wouldn't recommend any smaller, perhaps a bit larger but not too large. Silver bearing and lead free solders are available. The silver bearing are great but way expensive, the lead free are all about pollution and are all crap.
    I get solder from Mouser, Digi-Key or MCM. This last time I bought from Digi-Key, their part number 82-121-ND.
    I generally leave the solder on the spool and reel off a foot and a half or 2 feet. If you cut it you end up with lots of short pieces that you can't use without burning yourself and end up wasting more of it. If you do want to cut off some DO NOT just pull it until it breaks. Cut or melt it. When you pull solder it stretches before it breaks but the flux does not stretch so you end up with bits of solder that have flux and others with no flux. This makes for difficult soldering, can make a mess of what you were trying to solder and is wasteful.
The solder listing on Digi-Key:
The stuff I bought:
Note the price went down nearly $10 since I bought.
Mouser's solder listing:
MCM solder listing:
Note the Tenma brand is OK but the Multicore is worth the higher cost.
    I could have bought solder for half of what I paid but I have learned that the better solders cost more and this is not a place to economize. I learned this while still in high-school.
    The last shop I worked at the owner bought the cheap store brands. One day he said he has to quit, he can't even solder anymore. I said it's the cheap solder he buys that is the problem and I would bring him some of what I use from home for him to try. The next day I presented him with a small coil of several feet of my solder. He didn't want to try it. A few hours later, in a voice that the whole shop heard, he shouted "Oh, I can solder again!" I knew he had tried the good stuff. Even after this experience he still insisted on buying the cheap stuff but he did allow me to buy my favorite for my use. I suspect that he would come over and nip off a few feet at a time as he needed it.

near real time MUF maps

Internet Space Weather and Radio Propagation